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These are Candle Making Tips from experienced Candle Masters from all over the country.
Wax and Color
When selecting a fragrance, try to match the color to what you would expect it to be. You can create custom colors/fragrances for individuals, but try to standardize as much as possible for your retail. It’s amazing how much color affects perception of fragrances.
An important Candle Making Tip is to keep a journal of what color chips you add to how many lbs of wax, so you can recreate it. After the wax and color chips are melted, drop a few drops on a white saucer so you can see the finished color. It solidifies lighter so it’s important to see it before you pour.
Make sure color is correct before adding fragrance, so if you have to reheat you will not burn off some of the fragrance.
If you must add color chips after you’ve started the cool down process, cut them up with a sharp knife into powder, or melt them in a cup in the microwave with a handful of wax flakes. Then pour some melted wax in the cup a few times to get it all. Stir well and test color again. You will become good at it! Note: Color and fragrance (except essential oils) are not natural products but are artificially made.
Be certain color additives or fragrances you purchase are not based in paraffin – they should be based in soy to complement your healthy natural soy wax.
Using Pretabbed Wicks and Sizing Tips
If you use a lot of color chips and/or fragrance, go the next size up on the wick. A candle making tip that is a huge time saver a pre-tabbed wick assembly for easy of use and “keeping it simple.” They come standard in all the kits we sell.
Place the container on the center and read the number that corresponds with the outside edge of the widest part of the jar.If the widest part of jar is at the 2.5 mark – go up to 3.
Better to go bigger than smaller. Too small of a wick will cause the candle to “tunnel”, and you will waste wax. Soy should burn clean all the way down to the bottom of the wick.
(You can always reuse unconsumed wax by melting and re-pouring) We use a double sided wick sticker or glue dot and glue the wick to the bottom before we pour, right in the center of the bullseye.
Containers, Jars and Tealights
Prepare your jars while you are waiting for your wax to cool down. On a clear jar, Soy wax has a tendency to “frost” which means the jar has sections or parts of it that pull away from the glass. This is normal. There are different remedies; some people say warm the jars up before pouring, others say make them cold and pour in a colder environment. It may be caused by the difference in room and jar temperature. It really doesn’t bother me – it’s hand-poured soy! Note: I’ve had jars that didn’t frost when made, but after being exposed to the fluctuations in temperature putting them in & out of my car frosted. Like I said- it’s not a big deal and doesn’t affect the performance of your candle..
Tealights: We have found that it is easier to just plop the wick in after pouring, as long as the wax is cloudy it will hold the wick. For stubborn wicks that are crooked, we use a wick stick to keep it straight. (Most of the time they do fine with nothing.) I fill them as much as I can, and they will burn about 6-10 hours, depending on the amount of fragrance used, and the air circulation around it.
The Cooling Down Process
The cooling down process takes time, and it’s easy to get impatient.Here’s one of many Candle Making Tips we learned the hard way…DON’T sit the pourer in cold water, or the bottom will set up first. We have had luck setting the pourer on cold tile, cement, and taking it outside if it’s cold. You have to stir it often or it will start to set up from the bottom and you will have to reheat and start over cooling. Another tip is to pour it into another pourer that’s not hot, for big batches it’s easier to pour that way anyway; and the one you cooked it in will be a few degrees warmer so you can finish one portion before starting another.
Perfect Top Tips
The pouring temperature has everything to do with how the tops of your candles turn out. If you pour them too hot, they will crackle and flake. If you pour them too cool, they will be bumpy. The perfect temperature is sludgy; like watery cream of wheat. That’s about 90 degrees.
No worries; if they’re not smooth you can fix them if they are not to your satisfaction. Melt the top layer of wax any of these ways:
1. Try to smooth out with finger
2. Use a hair dryer on low
3. Use a candle lighter, avoiding the wick
4. Put in microwave (no metals)
5. use a heat gun from the hardware store
Depending on the size of pourer you use, you will be pouring up to 6 lbs melted wax. The temperature cools off faster after you start to pour, so the last candle tops can look different than the first ones on larger batches. The are several ways candle makers tell me they achieve this: one way is to fill the container ½ way on the first pass, and go back and finish it so the cooler wax is on the top of all of them. This has been working great for us, especially with larger batches. It always works best when it’s a little sludgy, but when you’re pouring big batches it sets up too fast.
If you add hot/warm wax after it has started to set up, you may get a hole. This is an air bubble that went in with the wax. Either re-melt the whole top layer, or add more wax to the whole top layer when cream of wheat texture.
Another one of those really helpful Candle Making Tips -If wax splashes on the side, you can clean it up with a lighter by heating up the outside of the jar and melting it into the candle top, or just wipe with a paper towel or q-tip.
It’s helpful to have several pourers, and divide the melted wax into another pourer to cool faster. Also we have a small pourer for children to use that’s easier for them to handle.
Candle Making Tip about tops and frosting: someone gave me a tip that placing a cardboard box over the candles while setting up to have smoother tops and less glass frosting
Easy Clean Up!
Our best Candle Making Tip is to use our Easy Clean-up soy wax.
Our proprietary blend of Soy wax cleans up nicely with soap and water. I recommend Dawn dish washing liquid because it does seem to break down the oily build-up better than others. You already have your hot water; just pour it into your empty pour pot (reheat it to get every drop out!) with some Dawn, and swish and wipe out with a paper towel.
Another one of those important Candle Making Tips is to keep your pipes unclogged! Pour the hot steamy water down the drain with more Dawn to be sure it doesn’t solidify in the pipes.