Don’t get stressed about your curved bay window

Elvis Elvis

Curved bay windows are little bit more work when fitting and hanging than straight sided bays. But still not very difficult. Just take it step by step and you won’t go far wrong.

This curved bay window is fitted with 3 swags. I have treated it the same as a 3 sided bay when cutting the top boards. The only difference are the returns. 

Dont get stressed about your curved bay window

The returns……what are they ?

The returns are the bits that come out of the bay both sides and comeonto the walls either side. Checkout the top boards diagram below to get a better idea what I mean.

Easy fit swags

The swags and tails in this example are pre sewn into shape and only needed me to pin them onto the top edge of the boards. Using drawing pins.

What to hang it all from

Below is a simple diagram of the top board shapes I used in this curved bay window. The easy way to sort out the right length of board is to lay a line of cord onto the floor by the skirting boards.

Ignore the curves and run your cord straight on 3 sides. When you have the cord on both of the sides at the same length. That gives you the cutting lengths of your 3 bay boards.

Dont get stressed about your curved bay window

Use a paper template for the angles

Next make a paper template using an A4 piece of paper. Fold it into the shape of the cord at the bends. Then use this to pencil mark the cutting line on the ends of the boards.

When you have done this lay your boards onto the floor in the bay and check how they fit. Don’t worry to much if the angles are not spot on or about slight gaps. This will all be covered by your curtains and swags.

All fixed to your ceiling

In this example the boards are fixed to the ceiling. To allow you to fix the swags onto the top of the boards they are fixed to 5cm blocks. These are fixed to your ceiling at regular intervals. On this job I used 3 on each side of the bay.This lets the top boards sit down a little from the ceiling.

I fixed the blocks with plugs and screws, but also glued to be double sure. I also painted them the color of the ceiling to make them less conspicuous.

Then I used “L” shaped brackets on each return board. Fixed underneath to the wall.

Thinking WAAAOOOOO…….to much !

I know it all seems like a lot of work and on the complicated side. Don’t let it overwhelm you just take a step at a time and don’t hurry. You don’t have to do it all in a day.

The final fitting step is to fit your curtain track to the under side of the top boards. Fix the brackets close to the back of the top boards. The track ends should finish about 2cm from each end.